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Showing posts with label Jalan Tan Hiok Nee. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jalan Tan Hiok Nee. Show all posts

Day Trip to Johor Bahru Town in Jun 1965 (Inspiring People I Met on a Trip Back in Time)

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
Photo Credit: Johor Bahru Hainanese Association

Johor Bahru, 2 Jun 1965. Today is my birthday - I am 5 years old :) To celebrate my birthday, Dad brought mum, my brother and sisters to Johor Bahru to eat and to buy our favourite cakes. We had a wonderful day :)

We boarded the bus at Queens Street (Singapore). We didn't have to pay for our bus ride as dad is a bus driver with the Singapore - Johor bus company. As we were getting up the bus, dad told the driver in Hokkien "人" or my people.

Rubber Tapper
Photo Credit: Wikipedia

It was a long bus ride, passing quiet rubber plantations with endless rows of neatly planted rubber trees in Nee Soon. I saw rubber tappers working hard and silently in the plantations, early in the morning. The rubber tappers inspire me with their discipline and hardworking nature.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-TownPhoto Credit: Construction site hoarding (source unknown)
 
After passing the lush forests of Woodlands, we arrived at the Causeway. I love crossing the Causeway. I was excited to see the sea to my left and right as our bus drove across it. A smoking train rumbled pass us on our right side as our bus was crossing.
 
 Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
 
When we arrived in JB, our first stop is always Sang Heng kway teow soup stall at Jalan Tan Hiok Nee. Dad is a regular customer and friend of Uncle Seng. Uncle Seng has many customers. They say his Teochew kway teow soup has that captivating "prawny" flavour. I like Uncle Seng's soup too.

Mee-Pok-Johor-Bahru

Dad ordered a bowl for everyone. I had mee pok dry which is my favourite. I am inspired by Uncle Seng's quiet pride and by his steadiness. Uncle Seng will carefully make each bowl of kway teow noodles one by one. Uncle Seng steadfastly wants to make the best kway teow soup, no matter how many customers are waiting. They all learnt to accept Uncle Seng's style and never complain :) I like the sound Uncle Seng's ladle makes when it hits the porcelain bowls.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

As we were eating, I spotted this customer leaving the coffee shop on his big Norton motorbike, making that throaty exhaust sound. I wish I could ride a bike like this when I grow up.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
 
After our breakfast at Uncle Seng's place, dad took us for a short walk to Hua Mui coffee shop along Jalan Trus.

Coffee-Johor-Bahru

Dad likes the thick Hainanese coffee here. He would pour the coffee into the shallow saucer to let the coffee cool down quickly and he would hold up the saucer to sniff the coffee aroma before sipping it loudly. "好香" my dad would say in Cantonese. Mum would always remind dad to enjoy his kopi without making that slurping noise but it would fall on deaf ears as usual :P As for me, I like the sweet French toast here - white bread toasted with Planta margarine and sprinkled with sugar.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

While daddy enjoyed his kopi (coffee), I watched the workers send food up and down stairs using a rope, a big tray and basket. Mum says this is a "dumb waiter". I wondered why she said that - I think this is a very clever idea :P With this, the workers don't need to climb up and down the stairs anymore. I am inspired that sometimes, problems can be solved with simple solutions.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

After coffee, we always walk up slope along Jalan Trus to stop by at the 50 year old Kok Yow Yong herbal tea shop. On our way to the old herbal tea shop, we passed by a red coloured arch on our left along Jalan Trus. Dad told us that Jalan Trus was the boundary separating the Hakka and Cantonese people of Johor Bahru during the old days. That red coloured arch leads to the houses where only Hakka people lived.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

Kok Yow Yong is a hole in the wall type of herbal tea shop. People from all walks of life and all races stop by for quick relief from the blistering heat with a "cooling tea".

Herbal-Tea-Johor-Bahru

Sister was having a cough and cold, so mum asked the auntie at the herbal stall for an extra strong herbal tea. Fortunately, I didn't have to drink this very bitter and thick, grainy, gooey tea today :P

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
Photo Credit: Johor Tourist Information Centre

We then walked along Jalan Dhoby towards our next stop, Salahuddin Bakery - on the way we passed several laundry shops.
 
Day-Trip-to-Johor-Bahru-Town

Dad stopped to chat with his friends Gopi and Muthu who work in one of the laundry shops along Jalan Dhoby. Gopi and Muthu are always cheerful, no matter how busy they were. Gopi always amazes me by how he is able to effortlessly straighten and flatten out wrinkly shirts and trousers with his hot iron in a matter of seconds. Gopi inspires me with his orderliness and systematic way of doing his work. I like the smell of freshly washed and ironed clothes at Uncle Gopi's shop.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

I love Salahuddin bakery - when we arrived we were greeted by a shop filled with the aroma and colours of freshly breads and cakes.

Day-Trip-to-Johor-Bahru-Town

Enche Salahuddin uses this old wood fired oven to bake his popular breads and cakes.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

Mum always buys bread from Enche Salahuddin whenever we come to Johor Bahru.

Karipap-Curry-Puff-Johor-Bahru

As for me, I always look forward to Enche Salahuddin's Bengali karipap (curry puff). Spicy mutton and potato with super crispy flaky crust that keeps falling off all over my clothes with every crunchy bite.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
Photo Credit: Johor Bahru Hainanese Association

After buying our triangle shaped Bengali karipaps and bread, we crossed Jalan Dhoby towards IT Roo Cafe. I am inspired by the strength and toughness of the two small boys at IT Roo who were happily helping out at their parent's cafe after school. One of the boys was my age and another was slightly older.

IT-Roo-Chicken-Chop-Johor-Bahru

IT Roo's chicken chop is our family's favourite. All of us love IT Roo's thick and chunky chicken chop in heavy crunchy batter. Since the chops were huge, we always just order 3 chops for all 6 of us to share. I also love IT Roo's potato wedges.

As we ate and chatted, I love the music they play in the background at IT Roo. The Righteous Brothers were crooning "Unchained Melody" - I think I will love this song for years to come.
  
Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
 
As we walked down Jalan Pahang after IT Roo's chicken chops, we walked pass this huge house - the largest house along these streets. Dad said that a rich Indian family lives in this towering mansion. I had to really crank and tilt my head till my neck aches to try and catch a glimpse of the people living inside. Mum would pull me along and tells me not to be such a busy body.

By the time we finished our chicken chops at IT Roo, it was already nearly 2pm. Dad hurried us up so that we could get to Hiap Joo bakery in time for their freshly baked banana cakes and coconut buns.
 
 Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

Like Salahuddin, Hiap Joo bakery also makes their breads and cakes using a large wood fired oven. I love to watch the frenzy inside the bakery as the freshly baked bread and hot cakes were taken out of the oven.
 
 Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
 
Auntie May cuts the freshly baked banana cakes. I am always amazed by how Auntie May is able to cut the slabs of banana cake into 10 pieces of exactly the same size. Auntie May inspires me to focus on whatever I am doing and to do it with pride, in order to get the best results.

Hiap-Joo-Bakery-Banana-Cake-Johor--Bahru

I love Hiap Joo's fluffy and soft banana cake. Real bananas are used to make this spongy cake, so it is not overly sweet. The skin is slightly charred from the wood fire while the inside is still moist.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
Photo credit: Construction site hoarding (source unknown)

Our stomachs full and our hands carrying bagfuls of bread, karipap and cakes, we make our way happily back to Singapore by bus.

It was a very memorable fifth birthday trip for me :)

Epilogue - Hiap Joo's banana cakes never ever made it home with us - me and my siblings pinched it one piece at a time and finished it on the bus on the way home.

The 1960s were tumultuous yet inspiring times. As a 5 year old in 1965, obviously I could not understand what was happening around me. Yet, I could sense and feel that the earth was moving and great shifts were taking place in many spheres. The wounds of the horrific Second World War were still raw. Former colonies, newly independent, faced uncertain futures. The life and death struggle between Communism and the West was still unsettled and it was not at all clear who will turn out the winner.

With this backdrop, the common folks of whom I am one, got on with our lives. Tomorrow will be better - this simple, simplistic thought kept us going. The people's hardy spirit and society's ruggedness inspired unconsciously. Music, fashion, science and other creative endeavours flourished in this crucible. It's only years later that I become conscious of their influence in my own life.

Some of this heritage survived to this day. Our food and food ways among the treasures that survived, thanks to our hawkers - I am so glad that we made it through more or less intact, together.

In conclusion, the people who inspire me are not always rich, powerful or famous. Many people who leave a mark in my life and influence me are "ordinary" "everyday" folks we meet every day. Since I was small, I have a special fascination for hawkers. I spent many hours watching hawkers prepare and cook food. In the process, the traits and values of the best hawkers inspired and enriched me.

This post, indeed this entire blog, though focused on Johor is dedicated to street hawkers everywhere.

Note: This "1960s" trip is fictional because my family couldn't have afforded this. A trip like this in the lean 1960s would be considered a luxury, a "dream trip" few families could afford. Nonetheless, all the shops and food mentioned are real, and they are still here in JB today, at and around Jalan Tan Hiok Nee 陈旭年街. And, hawkers are the real inspiration for me and for this blog.

Day-Trip-to-Johor-Bahru-Town
Click to view post on heritage food trail 2013

Click on the picture above to take a tour of these heritage shops as they are today (2013).

This 60s themed post is submitted for the Singapore Blog Awards 2013.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
Photo Credit: Johor Bahru Hainanese Association

Johor Bahru, 2 Jun 1965. Today is my birthday - I am 5 years old :) To celebrate my birthday, Dad brought mum, my brother and sisters to Johor Bahru to eat and to buy our favourite cakes. We had a wonderful day :)

We boarded the bus at Queens Street (Singapore). We didn't have to pay for our bus ride as dad is a bus driver with the Singapore - Johor bus company. As we were getting up the bus, dad told the driver in Hokkien "人" or my people.

Rubber Tapper
Photo Credit: Wikipedia

It was a long bus ride, passing quiet rubber plantations with endless rows of neatly planted rubber trees in Nee Soon. I saw rubber tappers working hard and silently in the plantations, early in the morning. The rubber tappers inspire me with their discipline and hardworking nature.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-TownPhoto Credit: Construction site hoarding (source unknown)
 
After passing the lush forests of Woodlands, we arrived at the Causeway. I love crossing the Causeway. I was excited to see the sea to my left and right as our bus drove across it. A smoking train rumbled pass us on our right side as our bus was crossing.
 
 Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
 
When we arrived in JB, our first stop is always Sang Heng kway teow soup stall at Jalan Tan Hiok Nee. Dad is a regular customer and friend of Uncle Seng. Uncle Seng has many customers. They say his Teochew kway teow soup has that captivating "prawny" flavour. I like Uncle Seng's soup too.

Mee-Pok-Johor-Bahru

Dad ordered a bowl for everyone. I had mee pok dry which is my favourite. I am inspired by Uncle Seng's quiet pride and by his steadiness. Uncle Seng will carefully make each bowl of kway teow noodles one by one. Uncle Seng steadfastly wants to make the best kway teow soup, no matter how many customers are waiting. They all learnt to accept Uncle Seng's style and never complain :) I like the sound Uncle Seng's ladle makes when it hits the porcelain bowls.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

As we were eating, I spotted this customer leaving the coffee shop on his big Norton motorbike, making that throaty exhaust sound. I wish I could ride a bike like this when I grow up.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
 
After our breakfast at Uncle Seng's place, dad took us for a short walk to Hua Mui coffee shop along Jalan Trus.

Coffee-Johor-Bahru

Dad likes the thick Hainanese coffee here. He would pour the coffee into the shallow saucer to let the coffee cool down quickly and he would hold up the saucer to sniff the coffee aroma before sipping it loudly. "好香" my dad would say in Cantonese. Mum would always remind dad to enjoy his kopi without making that slurping noise but it would fall on deaf ears as usual :P As for me, I like the sweet French toast here - white bread toasted with Planta margarine and sprinkled with sugar.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

While daddy enjoyed his kopi (coffee), I watched the workers send food up and down stairs using a rope, a big tray and basket. Mum says this is a "dumb waiter". I wondered why she said that - I think this is a very clever idea :P With this, the workers don't need to climb up and down the stairs anymore. I am inspired that sometimes, problems can be solved with simple solutions.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

After coffee, we always walk up slope along Jalan Trus to stop by at the 50 year old Kok Yow Yong herbal tea shop. On our way to the old herbal tea shop, we passed by a red coloured arch on our left along Jalan Trus. Dad told us that Jalan Trus was the boundary separating the Hakka and Cantonese people of Johor Bahru during the old days. That red coloured arch leads to the houses where only Hakka people lived.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

Kok Yow Yong is a hole in the wall type of herbal tea shop. People from all walks of life and all races stop by for quick relief from the blistering heat with a "cooling tea".

Herbal-Tea-Johor-Bahru

Sister was having a cough and cold, so mum asked the auntie at the herbal stall for an extra strong herbal tea. Fortunately, I didn't have to drink this very bitter and thick, grainy, gooey tea today :P

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
Photo Credit: Johor Tourist Information Centre

We then walked along Jalan Dhoby towards our next stop, Salahuddin Bakery - on the way we passed several laundry shops.
 
Day-Trip-to-Johor-Bahru-Town

Dad stopped to chat with his friends Gopi and Muthu who work in one of the laundry shops along Jalan Dhoby. Gopi and Muthu are always cheerful, no matter how busy they were. Gopi always amazes me by how he is able to effortlessly straighten and flatten out wrinkly shirts and trousers with his hot iron in a matter of seconds. Gopi inspires me with his orderliness and systematic way of doing his work. I like the smell of freshly washed and ironed clothes at Uncle Gopi's shop.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

I love Salahuddin bakery - when we arrived we were greeted by a shop filled with the aroma and colours of freshly breads and cakes.

Day-Trip-to-Johor-Bahru-Town

Enche Salahuddin uses this old wood fired oven to bake his popular breads and cakes.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

Mum always buys bread from Enche Salahuddin whenever we come to Johor Bahru.

Karipap-Curry-Puff-Johor-Bahru

As for me, I always look forward to Enche Salahuddin's Bengali karipap (curry puff). Spicy mutton and potato with super crispy flaky crust that keeps falling off all over my clothes with every crunchy bite.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
Photo Credit: Johor Bahru Hainanese Association

After buying our triangle shaped Bengali karipaps and bread, we crossed Jalan Dhoby towards IT Roo Cafe. I am inspired by the strength and toughness of the two small boys at IT Roo who were happily helping out at their parent's cafe after school. One of the boys was my age and another was slightly older.

IT-Roo-Chicken-Chop-Johor-Bahru

IT Roo's chicken chop is our family's favourite. All of us love IT Roo's thick and chunky chicken chop in heavy crunchy batter. Since the chops were huge, we always just order 3 chops for all 6 of us to share. I also love IT Roo's potato wedges.

As we ate and chatted, I love the music they play in the background at IT Roo. The Righteous Brothers were crooning "Unchained Melody" - I think I will love this song for years to come.
  
Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
 
As we walked down Jalan Pahang after IT Roo's chicken chops, we walked pass this huge house - the largest house along these streets. Dad said that a rich Indian family lives in this towering mansion. I had to really crank and tilt my head till my neck aches to try and catch a glimpse of the people living inside. Mum would pull me along and tells me not to be such a busy body.

By the time we finished our chicken chops at IT Roo, it was already nearly 2pm. Dad hurried us up so that we could get to Hiap Joo bakery in time for their freshly baked banana cakes and coconut buns.
 
 Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town

Like Salahuddin, Hiap Joo bakery also makes their breads and cakes using a large wood fired oven. I love to watch the frenzy inside the bakery as the freshly baked bread and hot cakes were taken out of the oven.
 
 Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
 
Auntie May cuts the freshly baked banana cakes. I am always amazed by how Auntie May is able to cut the slabs of banana cake into 10 pieces of exactly the same size. Auntie May inspires me to focus on whatever I am doing and to do it with pride, in order to get the best results.

Hiap-Joo-Bakery-Banana-Cake-Johor--Bahru

I love Hiap Joo's fluffy and soft banana cake. Real bananas are used to make this spongy cake, so it is not overly sweet. The skin is slightly charred from the wood fire while the inside is still moist.

Day-Trip-Johor-Bahru-Town
Photo credit: Construction site hoarding (source unknown)

Our stomachs full and our hands carrying bagfuls of bread, karipap and cakes, we make our way happily back to Singapore by bus.

It was a very memorable fifth birthday trip for me :)

Epilogue - Hiap Joo's banana cakes never ever made it home with us - me and my siblings pinched it one piece at a time and finished it on the bus on the way home.

The 1960s were tumultuous yet inspiring times. As a 5 year old in 1965, obviously I could not understand what was happening around me. Yet, I could sense and feel that the earth was moving and great shifts were taking place in many spheres. The wounds of the horrific Second World War were still raw. Former colonies, newly independent, faced uncertain futures. The life and death struggle between Communism and the West was still unsettled and it was not at all clear who will turn out the winner.

With this backdrop, the common folks of whom I am one, got on with our lives. Tomorrow will be better - this simple, simplistic thought kept us going. The people's hardy spirit and society's ruggedness inspired unconsciously. Music, fashion, science and other creative endeavours flourished in this crucible. It's only years later that I become conscious of their influence in my own life.

Some of this heritage survived to this day. Our food and food ways among the treasures that survived, thanks to our hawkers - I am so glad that we made it through more or less intact, together.

In conclusion, the people who inspire me are not always rich, powerful or famous. Many people who leave a mark in my life and influence me are "ordinary" "everyday" folks we meet every day. Since I was small, I have a special fascination for hawkers. I spent many hours watching hawkers prepare and cook food. In the process, the traits and values of the best hawkers inspired and enriched me.

This post, indeed this entire blog, though focused on Johor is dedicated to street hawkers everywhere.

Note: This "1960s" trip is fictional because my family couldn't have afforded this. A trip like this in the lean 1960s would be considered a luxury, a "dream trip" few families could afford. Nonetheless, all the shops and food mentioned are real, and they are still here in JB today, at and around Jalan Tan Hiok Nee 陈旭年街. And, hawkers are the real inspiration for me and for this blog.

Day-Trip-to-Johor-Bahru-Town
Click to view post on heritage food trail 2013

Click on the picture above to take a tour of these heritage shops as they are today (2013).

This 60s themed post is submitted for the Singapore Blog Awards 2013.

reade more... Résuméabuiyad

Old JB Town Heritage Food Trail at Jalan Tan Hiok Nee 陈旭年街 in Johor Bahru

In this post, I am taking you on a walking heritage tour of the old hawkers of old town Johor Bahru, mainly along Jalan Tan Hiok Nee and also the surrounding streets as well. For this heritage trail on foot we start at 10:00am and end at about 2:00pm.

Johor-Bahru-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街

Our first stop is Sang Heng 甡兴 just next to the OCBC branch at the east end of Jalan Tan Hiok Nee. The Teochew kway teow soup uncle has been here since the 1950s.

Johor-Bahru-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街
Ah Seng also sells braised duck and pork at the stall.

Uncle Ah Seng is the oldest hawker on this street and one of the oldest in the whole of Malaysia. Ah Seng's loyal followers say his kway teow soup hasn't changed at all, all these years. "Old school" they say. Let's try Ah Seng's popular kway teow and mee pok but we'll save the coffee for our next stop.

Johor-Bahru-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街

After Sang Heng, we walk along Jalan Tan Hiok Nee and at the junction with Jalan Trus turn to our right towards restoran Hua Mui along Jalan Trus. Like Sang Heng, Hua Mui opened for business in the 1950s.


We shall stop here for Hainanese coffee, soft boiled eggs and French toast. Unlike Sang Heng, Hua Mui has been considerably updated to the chagrin to some of its old timer fans. But, at least, this cup and saucer are still originals :)

Johor-Bahru-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街-Old-JB-Town

After coffee, walk up slope along Jalan Trus. At the next junction (with Jalan Pasar), you will be at Kok Yow Yong herbal stall. Kok Yow Yong has been here for a hundred years, making it the oldest here in old JB town. The stall front has just been modernised. Lost most of it's old quaintness and original charm but thankfully, the herbal drink is still the same.



After herbal tea at Kok Yow Yong, we walk back down towards Hua Mui. Back at Hua Mui turn right along Jalan Dhoby and keep walking along the shops until you come to Salahuddin Bakery. No much changed at Salahuddin's since the bakery started business here in 1937. That old wood fired oven is still in use. We can still get those lamb filled Bengali curry puffs with flaky crusts - the same as those from my childhood.

Old-JB-Town-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街-Johor-Bahru

After Salahuddin, we cross Jalan Dhoby to the restaurant diagonally across - Restoran IT Roo. IT Roo started business in 1961, and during its heydays was even named the Best Chicken Chop in Malaysia in 2003. Much has changed at IT Roo with only the old photographs in the shop to remind us of it's legacy. IT Roo's chunky chicken chops are still a crowd puller.

Old-JB-Town-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街-Johor-Bahru

After IT Roo, walk down along Jalan Pahang. At the junction of Jalan Pahang and Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, you will see the most photographed building in old town Johor Bahru - called the Red House for obvious reasons. Originally the home of a wealthy Indian family, the Red House is now the venue of cultural and art events.

At the Red House, walk along Jalan Tan Hiok Nee towards Jalan Trus. At the junction of Jalan Trus and Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, you will see the popular Kin Wah kopitiam. Right across Kin Wah along Jalan Tan  Hiok Nee is Hiap Joo bakery - the final stop of our Heritage Walk.

Old-JB-Town-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街-Johor-Bahru

Like Salahuddin bakery, Hiap Joo also uses a wood fire oven from 1919. The traditional hot favourites are Hiap Joo's coconut buns and banana cakes.

Hiap Joo Banana Cake

We will take away some straight out of the oven before making our way home. The new generation of owners are coming up with more contemporary pastries but I just stick to old time favourites :)

There you are - heritage walk and heritage food trail of old town Johor Bahru's Jalan Tan Hiok Nee "Culture Street" 文化街.

Plenty of food tasting and photo opportunities for foodies and photography buffs.

Summary of Jalan Tan Hiok Nee heritage food trail:

10:00am Teochew kway teow soup at Sang Heng
10:45am Coffee at Hua Mui
11:15am Herbal tea at Kok Yow Yong (drink and go)
11:45am Pastry shopping at Salahuddin bakery
12:15pm Chicken chop at IT Roo
  1:30pm Pastry shopping at Hiap Joo bakery. End of heritage tour.
In this post, I am taking you on a walking heritage tour of the old hawkers of old town Johor Bahru, mainly along Jalan Tan Hiok Nee and also the surrounding streets as well. For this heritage trail on foot we start at 10:00am and end at about 2:00pm.

Johor-Bahru-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街

Our first stop is Sang Heng 甡兴 just next to the OCBC branch at the east end of Jalan Tan Hiok Nee. The Teochew kway teow soup uncle has been here since the 1950s.

Johor-Bahru-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街
Ah Seng also sells braised duck and pork at the stall.

Uncle Ah Seng is the oldest hawker on this street and one of the oldest in the whole of Malaysia. Ah Seng's loyal followers say his kway teow soup hasn't changed at all, all these years. "Old school" they say. Let's try Ah Seng's popular kway teow and mee pok but we'll save the coffee for our next stop.

Johor-Bahru-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街

After Sang Heng, we walk along Jalan Tan Hiok Nee and at the junction with Jalan Trus turn to our right towards restoran Hua Mui along Jalan Trus. Like Sang Heng, Hua Mui opened for business in the 1950s.


We shall stop here for Hainanese coffee, soft boiled eggs and French toast. Unlike Sang Heng, Hua Mui has been considerably updated to the chagrin to some of its old timer fans. But, at least, this cup and saucer are still originals :)

Johor-Bahru-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街-Old-JB-Town

After coffee, walk up slope along Jalan Trus. At the next junction (with Jalan Pasar), you will be at Kok Yow Yong herbal stall. Kok Yow Yong has been here for a hundred years, making it the oldest here in old JB town. The stall front has just been modernised. Lost most of it's old quaintness and original charm but thankfully, the herbal drink is still the same.



After herbal tea at Kok Yow Yong, we walk back down towards Hua Mui. Back at Hua Mui turn right along Jalan Dhoby and keep walking along the shops until you come to Salahuddin Bakery. No much changed at Salahuddin's since the bakery started business here in 1937. That old wood fired oven is still in use. We can still get those lamb filled Bengali curry puffs with flaky crusts - the same as those from my childhood.

Old-JB-Town-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街-Johor-Bahru

After Salahuddin, we cross Jalan Dhoby to the restaurant diagonally across - Restoran IT Roo. IT Roo started business in 1961, and during its heydays was even named the Best Chicken Chop in Malaysia in 2003. Much has changed at IT Roo with only the old photographs in the shop to remind us of it's legacy. IT Roo's chunky chicken chops are still a crowd puller.

Old-JB-Town-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街-Johor-Bahru

After IT Roo, walk down along Jalan Pahang. At the junction of Jalan Pahang and Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, you will see the most photographed building in old town Johor Bahru - called the Red House for obvious reasons. Originally the home of a wealthy Indian family, the Red House is now the venue of cultural and art events.

At the Red House, walk along Jalan Tan Hiok Nee towards Jalan Trus. At the junction of Jalan Trus and Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, you will see the popular Kin Wah kopitiam. Right across Kin Wah along Jalan Tan  Hiok Nee is Hiap Joo bakery - the final stop of our Heritage Walk.

Old-JB-Town-Heritage-Food-Trail-Jalan-Tan-Hiok-Nee-陈旭年街-Johor-Bahru

Like Salahuddin bakery, Hiap Joo also uses a wood fire oven from 1919. The traditional hot favourites are Hiap Joo's coconut buns and banana cakes.

Hiap Joo Banana Cake

We will take away some straight out of the oven before making our way home. The new generation of owners are coming up with more contemporary pastries but I just stick to old time favourites :)

There you are - heritage walk and heritage food trail of old town Johor Bahru's Jalan Tan Hiok Nee "Culture Street" 文化街.

Plenty of food tasting and photo opportunities for foodies and photography buffs.

Summary of Jalan Tan Hiok Nee heritage food trail:

10:00am Teochew kway teow soup at Sang Heng
10:45am Coffee at Hua Mui
11:15am Herbal tea at Kok Yow Yong (drink and go)
11:45am Pastry shopping at Salahuddin bakery
12:15pm Chicken chop at IT Roo
  1:30pm Pastry shopping at Hiap Joo bakery. End of heritage tour.
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